Day 278....It's also February 8, 2020.....and we are in Saint Mary’s Georgia

Day 278....It's also February 8, 2020.....and we are in Saint Mary’s Georgia

Trekkin across the Florida Panhandle.....also called The Emerald Coast...is pretty cool..... stretches from the Alabama border to the Apalachicola River, offering a unique blend of Southern charm and beach paradise. An area significantly impacted by Gulf activity on one side, while being sufficiently far from the Atlantic Ocean to avoid its effects." The area also has access to multiple major metropolitan areas in 3 states....Florida, of course....and it's Pensacola area....and the half million folks there......Alabama offers up Mobile...and the over 400 thousands folks that call that region home......and if folks are up for a bit more of a drive....well...there's the Atlanta metro area...here in Georgia....a doable drive.....if you need access to over 5 million humans....and everything that comes with that. The panhandle has plenty to offer for those folks that want wide open spaces, small town America life and some pretty awesome weather. On the flipside…this exposure...to all that water.... means that many of the towns I have driven through and read about have experienced direct hits by hurricanes 3 to 4 times in the last decade.....so I guess the word resilient applies here as well.....it definitely applies to the folks that call the area home.

The last hundred miles or so into St. Mary's was spent zig zagging back and forth across that Florida Georgia state line......and not gonna lie.....it's pretty dang funny listening to my confused phone randomly announce every few minutes…..”Welcome to Georgia”…”Welcome to Florida”…..”Welcome to Georgia”…”Welcome to Florida”…..

Oh....another funny story...

We'd stopped for some shut eye at a rest stop in a place called Lee Florida. Dougie and I were out early the next morning for our first walk....still pretty dark outside…with only the benefit of the park lights as we wandered around the grassy areas along a wooded space......when we came across a ....a dunno....a rock…a branch…a something??…could not really see what it was. Dougie got within about a foot well....whatever it was sprang to life and waddled off into those woods…turns out....we had just met our very first armadillo!! HaHa! Dougie lunged towards it as I, in a sudden burst of panic jumped backwards and drug him in the opposite direction! Dougie was sad to watch it waddle away while I was just relieved that it was going in the other....direction. Everyday is a learning experience…now our walks can be even more exciting! We'd always had the chance of stumbling across the random coyote, rabbit, squirrel, racoon, or even neighborhood cat on the streets of east Tacoma…across the deserts of Arizona...Nevada....and New Mexico.....we'd learned to keep an eye out above for whatever feathered critters might be lurking there...... and Colorado.....Wyoming and Montana had taught us that some pretty pesky rattlers might be instore under any interesting looking rock......and now....we can put armadillos on that list.....

We spent the rest of that day covering the 130 miles or so between Lee Florida...and St Mary's Georgia....We've had St. Mary's in our sites for a while....why?

Well.... quick backstory here.....I'd first be introduced to the area coming on 20 years ago...it was 2002...and I'd just purchased a brand new Saab 9-3 Viggen Convertible.....and of all the cars I've owned to date....hands down....my favorite! Saab....in 1999....had taken their popular 93 platform.....and Beefed it up...more than a little...most all the way around...more horse power....higher torque...stiffer and more responsive suspension.....upgrades to the ECU and the Clutch system....higher capacity air intake coolers.....higher flowing exhaust...17" wheels....upgraded the breaking system......and even lowered the overall stance of the car to increase performance and provide a more agressive look......Saab went on to wrap it up all up in the 93 skin adding a few more subtle accents both inside and out in a way that more subtly announced that this Saab...was more than just a little different....They called the limited edition car the Viggen....which was in honor of the their aircraft heritage and a nod to the Saab AJ37 Viggen combat aircraft ....a fleet of planes that would be utilized by the Swedish Airforce from the early 70's.....until around 2005...I think I read..... when the last unit was retired. and the word Viggen....loosely translates to Thunderbolt in english. Saab produced only around 5000 of these cars between 1999 and 2002....with somewhere between 300...and 700 each year making it to the US.....I think that was one of the most exciting aspects of the car....for me.....it wasn't common...in fact...pretty rare. There are some 280 million cars registered in the US....and around 12 million new cars registered each year....so I felt pretty confident that in a sea of cars......I wouldn't often see another Viggen....and making the experience even more fun... included in the purchase of each Viggen.....was a 2 day drivers course at a place called Road Atlanta. Saab called it "The Viggen Flight Academy". and I was so excited...... To get this 2 day opportunity to spend time on an actual speedway with professional driving instructors....really learning....how to drive.....and safely enjoy the super cool car I had just bought....and not to mention....meet a few other folks that had discovered....and were enjoying their viggens all across the country.

Anyway..... during the planning process....and scheduling of the trip.....I realized....that this....would be my first opportunity to spend time in Georgia....and the perfect time to take an extended vacation....and do some exploring.....so I did

I'd fly into Atlanta the weekend before the driving class.....and as expected.....had a blast....on those courses....with those drivers......learning......I even got my "Graduation from the Viggen Flight Academy" certificate and badge acknowledging my accomplishments.....or....more accurately....the accomplishments of those professional drivers that were in the passenger seat....most each and every mile through those courses....

And after the course....I rented a car and hit the road....I'd spend over a week....and a ton of time behind the wheel of that rental car checking out everything from the Smokey Mountains......to Tennessee....Nashville....and the Grand "ol Opry......but on one road trip in particular....I'd find myself immersed in a magical place called Savannah.....and just a hundred or so miles from there.....a couple of super cool finds....like St. Mary's...and Jekyll Island.....and I was hooked. I could picture myself living here....and having the opportunity to absorb it all....every day.

I told myself I'd for sure be back.....but then....life did....what life does....and before I knew 18 years had passed....with no follow up visits to Georgia.....until now...

Driving into St. Mary's this time ...for some reason....I thought about that first drive into Rangely Colorado a few months back......when I realized if your driving into Rangely....it's likely because your going to rangely........a town thats not really on the way to much anywhere else.....and how the same...could be applied to St. Marys......this place is even more so.... a drive to.....It's not a drive by.....Different from Rangely in the respect that ..... you can "drive by...or thru Rangely.....and keep going.....but here in St Marys.....if your aim is to simply pass thru the town and keep going...without turning around....you best have a boat with ya....cause there's gonna be some water involved....and a lot of water.

it's also a town that at one point in time....would claim it's rank as the 6th largest town in Georgia.....a town that union troops would do their best to burn down during the civil war....but nature would intervene with the rainstorm the townspeople had prayed for and would save a good portion of the town...and.... an iconic.....and the oldest presbyterian church in the state.....The First Presbyterian Church of St. Mary's...... built in 1808 and has been in continuous operation for over 212 years......St. Mary's is also home to one of the oldest cemeteries in Georgia....the Oak Grove Cememtary.....the one where more revolutionary fighters would be laid to rest....than any other in the state.....2nd in the country for that matter....behind only Arlington Cemetary in Virginia.

It was becoming pretty clear....early on....that we were surrounded by a good many firsts.....a lot of "only's"..... a lot of history....and I knew immediately....this was gonna be fun.....

The towns is located in the Low Country of Georgia....the southeast corner not far from the Florida state line. It's characterized by its flat terrain and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean it's part of the states Coastal Plain region, which consists of fertile, sandy soils...and lots of rivers and marshlands weaving their way out into that Atlantic Ocean.

Another part of the country.... first discovered in the 16th century by the Spanish. In this region ..... Spanish explorers would encounter... The Timucua People.

The Timucua..... were a Native American people who lived in Northeast and North Central Florida and Southeast Georgia.

They were the largest indigenous group in this area, consisting of about 35 chiefdoms, and many of those leading thousands of people. The name is believed to have originated from the Timucuan word Thimogona" or "Thimogoua.....but the Spanish would later adopt the term Timucua..........It doesn't appear....or at last I couldn't find....a direct translation but it seems the word refers to "the other people" or a "people that were somehow different"

Here In Georgia, the Timucua territory stretched from the Altamaha River and Cumberland Island down here to the St. Mary's River area.

A people that were known for complex societies....and cultural traditions.....like intricate tatoo's.....and wearing deerskins and antlers while hunting.

I would also learn that their unique DNA...and documentation of their language....lead us to believe that they were amongst the oldest tribes in the region....and their language itself may have been one of the oldest on the entire North American continent. Even their artwork....in the form of trinkets, jewelry and pottery....date back over 5000 years making it some of the oldest on the continent.

And here would be the first time on this adventure....I would read of the extinction....of an entire people. The Timucua....a strong culture....numbering in the thousands had thrived throughout the region for hundreds of years....and their ancestors for thousands of years before that....... only to be brought to an end...by the arrival of European explorers...and the diseases they brought with them. Within a century.....the Timucuan people would be ravished by diseases.... that they had no natural immunity to. Small pox...measles...and influensa....would all have catastrophic effects on their population....it wasn't like they could run up the road and get a small pox vaccination....that wouldn't even be invented for nearly 100 years....after the last Timucuan had perished. Then pile on attempts at enslavement by the Europeans...and conflicts that would arise over territorial disputes...and you have the recipe that resulted in the extinction of an entire culture...A people that for thousands of years....were the only people.....in this region of Florida and Georgia. It's a lot to absorb....to begin to understand fully....I don't know that I will ever be able to understand fully...but to understand on a deeper level....the impact.... European discovery...exploration....and settlement....would have on the indigenous peoples of North America... Simply by setting foot on the soils of North America...every where from coast to coast.....they had already begun the killing of 10's of thousands of native americans.....and not even knowing it. Way before they picked up a gun and shot them .... before they began rounding them up and relegating them to reservations.....or enslaving them.....they were already killing them....by introducing them....to disease.

And that settlement....all across the country....would march on...over here....by the 18th Century British presence would be introduced....which would later evolve into American settlement.

As a result of that settlement......the 19th Century would bring significant growth to St. Marys as it grew into a busy seaport.

The town would continue to evolve into the 20th century as it became a strategic military location.

So here we are....in a town of 18,000....a town named for the Spanish Mission.....Santa Maria....a town that was officially chartered in 1787......then recognized by Georgia legislature in 1792.....and finally.... incorporated in 1802......

A town that would be occupied by the British during the War of 1812.....in their attempt to disrupt US control of the area's coastline.....

A town that would be occupied yet again by the enemy during the American Civil War....but this time....the enemy attempting to burn their town down.....were other Americans.....the ones clad in those union uniforms....

Like I said.....a lot to dig into here....

But our first day in St. Mary's would be spent driving around the town...re-familiarizing myself with what I had remembered....which was very little.....from those 18 or so years ago. We'd also be taught another lesson....or...not really another lesson.....but the same lesson yet again...guess this thick skulled nutball has to be taught something more than once.....Just as we had discovered in those miles behind us......St. Mary's....is another place you dont just roll into.....in January......and expect to find a spot to park an RV on the spur of the moment. We'd learn....that this part of Georgia and North Florida.....are actually considered the Arizona.....of the east coast.....so ya...January....pretty popular. So while I wasn't exactly surprised to learn that the super cool "Crooked River State Park" was full.......it was a bit of a disappointment to learn that one of the only other options....a place called "The Big Wheel RV park" was currently undergoing some maintenance or repair work....and had nothing available either.... With the day coming to a close....we had passed a 2 acre parcel of property for sale on our way into the Crooked River State park.....on our way out....I pulled into that open space....just across the road from the Kings bay Naval yard....and called the number on the For Sale Sign....and thats how we met Jim. A super nice guy. I explained that we had just rolled into town...without reservations....and needed to set up camp for a couple days until we got situated...and was most definitely happy to throw a few bucks his way for the privilege of parking on that two acre parcel. No problem .......he said. I'll swing by in a few and check on ya....I'm just up the road.

Sure enough......a few minutes later....as Dougie and I were finishing up an evening walk....a big silver GMC pickup rolled up.....and Jim waved. As he walked up...he handed me a slip of paper with a phone number on it.....and said....call Sharon.....she doesn't really advertise much....but has a spot just up the road here with a few RV hookups on it....not sure what she's got available....but she'll help ya out if she can. Awesome.....I said as I thanked him. Jim wouldn't take any money.....just kept sayin....what fer....

Just sittin here for sale.....just space....use it if ya need it. Call me anytime if ya need help with anything else.....as Jim waved and rolled out....another pick up rolled up. A young guy hopped outta the truck and asked...."you loose a dog?" Not me....I said......but quickly opened the door of the RV for a quick peek inside to make sure Dougie was still there.....the young guy went on.....Neighbor up the street says she seen a dog she's never seen before run past her house....thought at first it was mine....but they're all accounted for....just out checking who might be short a dog.....she said it looked young...scared....and lost.

Told him the only one I had was accounted for.......but thanks for checking....I'll keep an eye out.

He....just like Jim....waved and rolled off.....and there we were.....on our new little temporary 2 acre home....for a day or two anyhoo.....and we even had neighbors....neighbors that cared a bit about things like......strangers in town needing a place to park for a night or two.....and neighbors that might have even misplaced a puppy.,,,and other neighbors......helpin to find that puppy.

I left Sharon a voicemail that night....she called me back first thing the next day....so Day two...in St. Marys was spent settling into a quiet little RV park just two streets up from where we had pulled off onto that two acre lot. I paid Sharon 3 months rent up front.....didn't know exactly how long we'd be here.....but I'd learned enough....and seen enough ..... in just our first day ......to know we'd hang out here for a while....

The first coupla days under Vacilando's awning.....Dougie on one side.....Billie on the other....cup of coffee on the side table....each day I considered getting out and doing some more exploring....learning.....but then neighbors would walk....drive....ride by....wave and stop to chat....I found just as quickly here.....as with many places we've been....when you roll in with Washington State plates on a 32 year old RV....not to mention Billie and Dougie happy to greet....it's not difficult to strike up a conversation....mostly.....I was just answering questions. Or....just sitting there reading a good book....well that's pretty awesome too.

And within those couple days.....Our sunny and warm welcome to Georgia....would come to an end. The 70 and 80 degree days quickly gave way to a couple of nights of near freezing weather with daytime temps barely cracking 60. They do not like the term frost around here. Folks would tell me......Current frosty temps mark the first time in two years it has dropped below freezing at night..... Folks immediately recall 2010 when a frost cost northern Florida and Southern Georgia nearly a billion dollars in lost crops. My favorite news bulletin was when south Florida issued a “falling Iguana” warning. You chuckle…as I did…but it’s serious business around here when temps drop below 50 degree’s rendering the reptiles dormant. They then fall from tree’s in their dormant state littering walkways with a new type of hazard. Reporters cautioned that you should not attempt to rescue or help them…”they are fine” and will return to normal behaviors as the temps return to normal. Leave it to us....I thought.... to land in a spot where reptiles can quite literally fall from the sky!

As I got out here and there for some exploring.....I discovered the St. Mary’s Submarine museum with tons of good stuff in relation to local submarine history....it would also teach me that st. marys is home to the first coast guard station in the country

and the “Tabby Ruins“…a rather non-descript local historical marker that upon first blush seems less than interesting…but upon closer inspection... and... reading becomes a fascinating structure that dates back to the early 1800’s and marks yet another example of what man was capable of in a time well before todays technologies.

“Tabby” is a term used to describe a construction method used by the Spanish dating back to the 1500’s.... Later adopted by the English in northern Florida and southern Georgia…buildings were built using a hand mixed mortar utilizing the abundant supply of oyster shells in the area....the shells would be burnt over an open fire in order to create a lime of sorts....this would then be mixed with sand water and ash.....

This particular building became the first operational sugar mill in the state using processes developed in Louisiana and later, after a change in ownership evolved into a starch factory. Today the walls erected nearly 200 years ago stand almost as proudly as they did upon completion......well...minus the roof.....

Standing in the middle of these walls, studying the detail, thinking through how they were built.....and then looking just across the street at an entrance to the Naval Submarine Station at Kings Bay...and there couldn't be anymore of a contrast....between the technology of a nuclear submarine today…vs. what industrious pioneers built by hand some 200 years earlier using a process that was used all across the region for hundreds of years before that.

Turns out that 10,327 miles, 9 months, and 15 states later…settling into a bit of a routine for a stretch.....is even more cool....and welcomed....that I would have thought.

One of my favorites each day.....still...... during walks with Dougie are those “alligator warning” signs.....again

Just like the " be Bear Aware" signs in Montana...Colorado....Wyoming....even Florida…signs are everywhere.....and yet we've yet to see one....nor have we seen one of those alligator thingies here.......

And we're totally good with that.

It all also makes me laugh......that whenever I ask local folks about gators…and do I really have to watch out ..... for em....the conversation quickly shifts to their favorite “gator tail” recipe…evidently it is more likely that I eat a gator tail than a gator actually attacking me…so I'm kinda feeling like at this point....in this neck of the woods...neither will actually happen....but who knows...seems Lemon Pepper Gator Tail is definitely the front runner when it comes to comparing recipes…And yes... I am assured by locals that it does indeed “taste like chicken”.

One evening......I was diggin around for more info on St. Marys.....and In doing so....I came across a video titled......Hometown Georgia....St. Marys.....I'll put a link in the show notes.......it's a great video.....Wether it's watching the young fisherman attempting to follow in his “papa’s” footsteps to the 90 year old lifelong resident of the area hitting Hardy’s for a burger then hanging out on the waterfront…it was nice listening to locals describe “their St. Mary’s”. A favorite quote from the video was the young lady that said “I was not born in the south…but I got here as soon as I could”

I think tomorrow I'll hop in the car after the morning walk with Dougie and venture out a little further.....I need to check out places like Cumberland Island.....Jekyll Island....Fernandina beach....and so much more...

Not for sure which direction I'll head tomorrow......but wherever it is.....

I wonder what we'll learn there?