Day 71. July 16, 2019. Hardman Oregon

It's day 72...it's also July 16 2019...and we are in Hardman Oregon

Hey! Welcome back.....So where was I?

Oh yea...headed out of Heppner....and lookin to find more cool stuff along Oregon's Blue Mountain Scenic byway.

Our trek would continue of offer even more unknown worlds....Unknown to me anyway...I know I've said it before...but I'll say it again...It is CRAZY to me that I spent 8 years of my life in Oregon.... and apparently I spent each and every one of those 2920 days running around in circles...looking at, seeing, touching, experiencing the same things over and over and over...when yet again...there was a world of history....a world of things to discover....in my own back yard...Each time I hopped in the car to run to the coast....or Portland....I could have simply chosen to go in a different direction and I would have seen and experienced something completely different.

So many have gone before us....worked through unimaginable odds. hardships, even tragedy...to leave us what we have here today. They had a dream...a vision for their future....It is pretty super cool to relive those adventures...and learn what so many worked so hard for....

Reading a historical marker about the trials and tribulations of a group of folks blazing the Oregon Trail some 160 years ago....learning that over half a million settlers would embark on what, at the time, was considered a treacherous journey....

Some 2000 miles from the banks of the Missouri river in Independance Missouri...to what is now the Willamette Valley in Oregon. They would make this journey on foot, in oxen driven wagons, and on horseback averaging 10 to 20 miles per day.

It is estimated that one in 10 would die during the journey as the result of disease, drowning, even freak accidents like accidental shootings and being crushed under a wagon wheel attempting to navigate the harsh terrain. In the end...total loss of life is unknown...but settlements would spring up all along the trail as folks decided they had gone far enough. It is also estimated that around 80,000 would ultimately make it to, and settle in this magical new place...full of hope for the future....a place they called the Oregon Country.

And I gotta say....taking a deep dive into the specifics about a day in the life of a settler...and what that might have looked and felt like....Maybe the next time I wake up and realize I am out of cream for my coffee....and the internet is down...it probably won't ruin my day.....instead....maybe I'll just take a walk...or get in the car...you know ....the one that starts with a key and moves itself when I press a pedal on the floor....and go find a historic marker....and stand there for a minute...listening to the past....and what life is.... or what it used to be.

From the Oregon Scenic Byway official website....I've already quoted a little from this site...but lets dig a bit deeper....quote....

This 145-mile route “cuts the corner” of Interstate 84 in northeast Oregon, leading through ranching communities up into the forests and wilderness areas of the Blue Mountains.

Expect high temperatures in summer and winter snow in higher elevations.

The only reliable gas can be found in Heppner...I'll tell you a funny story about this in a minute...but suffice it to say there would be another life on the road lesson... learned here in the Blue Mountains.

Medical services/hospitals located in Heppner, La Grande, Baker City and Pendleton. The fact that they make a point of telling you where medical services are available should give you an idea of how "rural" this area of the country can become. There is even a section that talks about potential road closures with a telephone number included so you can call ahead to make sure roads are open before you head into these Mountains....and the adventure they offer.

The site goes on to say...

It’s always tempting to make a beeline for Oregon’s magnificent coast, but this byway encourages you to take it slow — not only to navigate the often narrow, twisting road but to discover the many attractions hiding just beyond the highway.

At it's heart....this area is Ranching Country

The west end of the byway begins along the Columbia River, where OR-74 leads south from I-84 at Heppner Junction. The Willow Creek Wildlife Area provides habitat for upland game birds and waterfowl.

The Oregon Trail passed through what is now Cecil, with thousands upon thousands of pioneer wagons pulled by oxen and mule teams making their way west in the 1850s.

For a brief detour off the byway, follow the Oregon Trail marker 13 miles east to an information kiosk at Wells Springs, where deep wagon ruts still furrow the earth to this day.

Back on the byway, the route winds along Willow Creek, surrounded by rolling wheat fields and hillsides dotted with livestock. The communities of Ione and Lexington began as sheep stations in the 1800s and still maintain classic examples of frontier architecture. close quote

Hard to grasp sometimes just how many personalities Oregon actually has. A day of driving along the Blue Mountain Scenic Byway will expose you to many different types of the states beauty. Hours of driving through ranchland, rolling hills lush with tall green grasses, and no shortage of historic markers along the Pioneer Trail. And in typical Oregon fashion…tall thick pines lining the occasional creek or river is never very far away.

Hardman is a piece of this areas history…a community located in southern Morrow county. It grew to be a social and commercial center for the surrounding farm communities until the railroad to Heppner, completed in the early 1920’s essentially turned it into a ghost town. In fact....as I first started to look things up on the internet about the town....rather than official websites or detailed accountings...the second thing I read was an article titled "Oregon's ghost town. What I would learn is that this would be the first place I had driven through that came and went in a flash. This stop very likely planted the seed of curiosity for me....why are there so many small towns across the country that sprung to life....boomed....and then faded into history within just a matter of a few years...What I would also learn...is that there are many common threads in the rise and fall of these towns. And with each stop....I also wonder when things might come full circle for these little slices of Americana...I mean....in a world of internet, Solar power, drones and battery operated cars...why not pick the perfect spot and have the best of both worlds? It's called small town America....and I kinda feel like we should do it again.

In Hardmans case....just one more....of what will become many....stories of how a town happened...and why it went away.

The area around what eventually became Hardman began in the late 1800's when settlement in the area started as two separate communities just a mile or so apart. One community known as Dairyville was referred to by the locals as Yallerdog....the soon to be bustling community up the road would be referred to as Rawdog initially as the two communities began to compete for a stage stop.

At the time, the only overland form of transportation thru the area was by stage coach so whichever landed the stop would certainly prosper. Rawdog landed the stop and over time the two communities would essentially merge and for a short period of time be referred to as Dogtown. The area would be referred to in area newspapers as one of the best farming sections in Morrow county...or in any of the country, for that matter. The area would also be referred to as "The bunch of grass hills". Another name that shows up early on in the area is Adamsville....one article referred Adamsville as Yallerdawg and Dairyville being called Rawdog....given record keeping at the time it's tough to nail now exactly where these canine oriented monikers originated....or why.

In 1881 when postal officials decided to establish a post office in the area...it was determined that Raw Dog....or Dog town would be unsuitable, so the area was renamed Hardman after a local homesteader.

For many years the area would steadily grow...ultimately reaching a population of nearly 1000 residents. The bustling freight trade through the area, combined with being a local commerce and trade center for the areas farming communities would sustain the areas growth. Again...local papers would herald Hardman... for it's position on the plateau as a thriving center for commerce. At it's height the town had it's own schools, stores, newspaper office, saloons, brothels and even a skating rink at one point. The Hardman Hotel would boast in advertisement for their12 dollar per month rooms, 25 cent home cooked meals and even a livery station kept well stocked with hay and grains.

Fortunes would shift for Hardman just a few years later in 1881 when the areas first train depot would be established some 20 miles away in Heppner. The railway connected Heppner to the busier commerce corridors of the Columbia River Gorge area. This connection would also eventually lead to future railways tying Oregon's interior to the heavy north and south traffic thru the Willamette Valley which connected California, Oregon, and Washington. The decline in Hardman would take a few years and by 1920, with all commerce happening in Heppner the community would die off as residents were forced to move closer to the economic centers.

The post office that renamed the town would be reduced to partial operation by the 40's and would ultimately close in 1968, along with Hardmans last known business.... which essentially signified the death of the town and gave it it's ghost town status.

While the town is listed as a ghost town, or abandoned in many publications...30 residents list hardman as their full time residence as of today. Another 20 or so own property and call Hardman Home for part of the year. While basic shopping needs can be met 20 miles up the road in Heppner...any serious shopping is nearly 100 miles away meaning....the 30 folks that call Hardman home really enjoy the quiet life.

Finally...if your an avid cyclist or Mountain biker....you may be familiar with the Hardman Barlow Canyon Arlington trail ride. Thousands of enthusiasts visit the area each year from around the country....here's what Travel Oregon . com has to say about the ride....quote

Get a little taste of life on the Oregon Trail as you wander north from the high desert to the mighty Columbia River on this route that follows part of an Oregon Trail alternate in its last half. The good news for you is that it’s downhill, and you have a much more maneuverable vehicle than the pioneers traveled with.

In the first stretch of riding on Hardman Ridge Road, the road turns primitive quickly for a mile or two, from being a traveled pathway to something that looks like it hasn’t been traversed in years.

Then you’ll see for yourself the odd demarcation of Hardman/Hale Ridge – the one side should be known as Hail Ridge (and once was), because it’s the line between where wheat can’t grow (south, on the Hale side) and where it can (north on the Hardman side). This is because of severe weather on one side, including… hail. For you it provides a divided view that’s both interesting and thought-provoking.

After you crest and start dropping, you’ll pass the old one-room Liberty School, with its empty windows staring out at postcard views of Mt. Hood. A long glide down Barlow Canyon Road will take you past weathered, abandoned homesteads that look like people just gathered a few things and moved on suddenly – which is exactly what happened in the 1940s. The progression of farmers and their families leaving went from high to low as the water table dried up. Today you can still see equipment left behind, curtains in windows… take a moment to ponder the hardscrabble lives those folks lived on this rangeland, and the frailty of rural existence.

But you may not choose to stop and think, because you’re having too much fun riding. By the time you reach Ione-Gooseberry Road, you’ll have rolled over 18 miles of uninterrupted gravel – some of it feeling smoother than a paved road as you fly along at upwards of 30 mph.

After a brief climb to a plateau, follow Cayuse Canyon down on the modern version of a trail that intersects the original Oregon Trail.

And here’s another piece of history. As you ride through the wide-open spaces, you’ll notice oddly out-of-place grain silos in the middle of nowhere. Here’s the story: After the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor in World War II, the U.S. government wanted to protect its grain (food) from potential attack in high-population, easily accessed areas. So they built silos here where they wouldn’t be an attractive target.

Around Mile 30, as you ride along a ridge on – yes – Ridge Road, you’ll see the valley fall away dramatically to the east, as Rock Creek Canyon stretches seemingly forever west- and northward. You can get lost in the scale of a place like this.

Finally, after enjoying another 15 miles of gravel, you’ll descend gradually to the town of Arlington, squeezing through Alkali Canyon just before hitting civilization and the vast power of the Columbia River.

To finish off your experience, enjoy a refreshing swim at Earl Snell Park, and then head over to the town of Boardman to visit the SAGE (Sustainable Agriculture and Energy) Center, an interactive visitor center that offers various exhibits and events.

And feel like a bicycle pioneer. Close quote.

Continuing on from Hardman, some 150 miles up the road we would pass thru Unity Oregon. In many ways...Unity looked very much like hardman....many abandoned buildings, mere remnants of all the hard work folks had put into the area all those years ago.

Unity, emerged as a community during westward expansion as did so many of the communities in this area because of the nations quest to reach the Oregon Country. Unities growth, unlike hardman, would not be centered around a stage coach stop, but rather by pure optimisn....hard work...and the promise of the fertile soil. The areas struggle would begin early on given economic fluctuations, changing industries and shifts in population to the larger metro areas.

The town of Unity was never actually platted, however a post office was established in 1891 and remains in operation today.

The population of the community rose to a some 40 pioneers....and some 130 plus years later....yep...40 permanent residents. My guess would be that the differentiating factor between hardman and unity....similar in population, but one still operates a post office and the other doesn't.....is Unity's much closer proximity to a larger metro area...that being Baker City Oregon with a population of around 10 thousand....and just 60 miles or so up the road.....making a commute doable for anyone interested in spending a few hours a week in their car.

Ahh....I almost forgot....that little life in an RV lesson I learned.....all about gas stations. Now I know...that there are actually places I can find myself over 125 miles away....from a gas station. I also know...that when you get to that gas station...you could also find a hand written sign on the door that says "Closed...out of gas". No biggie...right...just call roadside assistance for a gas up service....ahh....nope....not with no cell service. The next 27 miles into John Day Oregon...with the needle clicking closer to empty with each passing mile....all kinds of thoughts rambled through my head....like....based on what we had seen in the 80 miles behind us....the odd's of running across a house that someone actually lived in were pretty slim. With it being to hot to leave the boys locked in the RV while I went for gas....I also started to picture what it would look like as I walked along a two lane hiway in Eastern Oregon...Billie on one side, Dougie on the other while I figured out how to carry a 5 gallon gas can?

Thankfully....none of that happened....we made it into John Day and gassed up. Lesson being....if you plan to spend days exploring the roads of rural America....it's a big place....so just top off the gas tank every chance you get.....you will be glad you did.

Oh....and if a little slice of rural America is on your bucket list.....I know where you can get your hands on a couple acres...complete with restaurant and single wide mobile home....for a mere 69 thousand dollars... You will likely be cooking for yourself on most occassions in the restaraunt....but who knows.....make a few friends with those 40 or so neighbors and a dinner guest or two may be at the table with ya. Yep....I wrote down the number! May just have to head back this way....Like I said...In a world of internet and drones....maybe supper with a friend or two in a quiet little piece of the Oregon Country....may be just what the Doctor ordered.

But for now....we kept going....The map says if we are going to avoid the crowds....we would be heading out through the John Day River Basin and then on into Fairfield Idaho.....

I wonder what we will learn there!