It's Day 196....it's also November 18, 2019.....and we are in Groom Creek Arizona
Podcast episode #34 Transcript
Dougie, Billie, and Craig
11/19/201914 min read


It's Day 196....it's also November 18, 2019.....and we are in Groom Creek Arizona
Wow....Arizona.....it seems.....has done it again....
In the span of just some 70 miles or so.....we've witnessed yet another pretty awesome transition in the Arizona desert.
Moving through the transition zone between the Sonoran and Mohave deserts. ..and traveling east up....and into The Prescott National Forest...we would also be climbing into....Arizona's.... Bradshaw Mountains....and transitioning yet again.....this time....from the desert scenery and climate....to an elevation of just over 5000 feet....and into the Mediterranean climate around Prescott Arizona. The most notable change here...clearly...would be the scenery. From the desert floor....just some 70 miles behind us.....it would have been hard to guess that we would camp this evening amongst the Ponderosa and Pinion Pines, the Douglas, and White Fir Trees....The Blue Spruce....even the quaking aspen and Alligator Juniper....all of which call the Bradshaw Mountains...and the Prescott National Forest home.
And as the scenery shifted....we continued to pass through the small, unincorporated communities that weave together the history of this part of Arizona. One in particular.....just 17 miles outside Prescott ...practically begged us to stop....take some photo's and learn about....I mean.....you can't "not" want to learn about a place called....Skull Valley.
The internet says some 300 or so folks call skull valley home.....we passed thru at around 11 in the morning on a Monday...kicked around a bit for more than an hour.....and saw no one.....not even another car passed thru. Definitely...a quiet place.
What we did see was a historical museum...closed.....a school....closed.....a church .... closed....well....ok....everything was closed. And apparently every one of those three hundred residents crawl out of bed on a Monday morning and head 17 miles up the road to....ahhh....do...everything......in Prescott.....it certainly didn't appear to us that any of them stick around here during a Monday morning.
I would also read later that the area is known for its petroglyphs....and pictograghs....those ancient carvings and paintings that document that native Americans had been in the area for thousands of years....prior to white settlement.
But the real curiosity....was in the name. Why would a place be named Skull Valley.....
Turns out.....that in this case....the naming was pretty literal.....in it's origins.
Skull Valley's name dates back to at least 1864 when the first gubernatorial party arrived in the Prescott area.....and appears to come from the rather grim discovery of numerous human skulls in the area, believed to be the remains of a Significant battle between Native American tribes, likely the Apache's and Maricopa's tribes. These battles appear to have been pretty common....and likely driven by territorial disputes....nearly always...in an attempt to control access ...to water and fertile soils around the lakes and rivers....which in turn provided for prosperity in farming and grazing of the lands. .....but the number of skulls....numbering in the dozens....found in this specific spot lead historians to believe that a single....major....battle took place here. Exactly when...and how long before white settlement...is not known....however....it is known that after a skirmish on August 12, 1866, involving settlers and soldiers against Native Americans, at least 35 more skulls were added to the areas collection.
The community would begin life as Camp Skull Valley...and was established to protect settlers and travelers but was moved to Camp Date Creek in 1867. This camp would actually be moved a couple of times but landed back in Date Creek where a Fort would be established. It was believed that the Fort would better serve the area given that areas proximity to resources.
Skull Valley was never incorporated.....but flourished.....like most communities in the area via mining, ranching, and farming.
In the late 1800's ... The railway would come to Skull Valley.....improving commerce in the area and contributing further to it's growth.....Those early military camps would also contribute to the towns growth in the early years....but began to fade out as the Indian wars subsided.
Population records in the area indicate that the town would grow to around 800...perhaps even higher during it's peak....hard to tell exactly when that was....but what is clear is that the town would begin a sharp declines as recently as the late 90's and into the 2000's. Within two decades the towns population would drop from 800....to the 300 that remain here today.
And why is that?
The decline of traditional industries like mining and agriculture, coupled with the mechanization of farming, reduced the need for labor in the area...
This lead to the natural....and a very common trend in many of the small towns we've seen....which is......Many of the towns residents were forced to move to urban areas in search of better job opportunities, education, and healthcare
This combined with the fact that the remaining population continued to age and younger generations often left for opportunities elsewhere....Which led to the dramatic decline in population the area has experienced in just the last 20 years...
Finally....it didn't help that Skull Valley would also begin experiencing environmental Issues such as water scarcity and changing climate conditions...having negative impact on agriculture production in the area.
We would also pass through a place called Kirkland....the sign at this towns entrance told us that 1600 people lived there.....but just as we would discover just up the road in Skull Valley....we didn't see a one of those 1600 folks. We did see A restaurant and Bar....Proudly bearing an aging sign declaring it the Historic Kirkland....Bar and Restaurant.....but on the front door of this historic site....we would also read faded signage....one handwritten sign notifying all...that the restaurant restrooms were for the use of patrons only....the bright orange sign taped next to it.....The county condemning the building and declaring it un safe....and warning us of the penalties of trespassing. ......but more clearly than anything....an establishment long since....gone.....closed.
And perhaps those 1600 folks that allegedly live there......are all in the same place those three hundred folks that live in Skull valley are.....wherever that is....I hope they carpool.
As we neared Prescott....and the nearly 45,0000 or so folks that call it home.....well.....lets just stop there for a second.....Prescott....and pronunciation. Seems to be more of a thing..... around here.....more than I have experienced....was it Saguaro....or Sawaro? Was it Salome...or Salomay? And when I first looked at a sign that read PRESCOTT.....that looked like Prescott...to me....but around here....they say Prescitt And why?....
The internet tells me that the name is pronounced Preskitt.....because thats what regional accents dictate. Particularly the southern migrants played a significant role in shaping the pronunciation of the name...and....that over time....the local dialect gradually adopted Preskitt as the common way to say it.
That same internet goes on to explain Phonetic Simplification.....which essentially means that over time....people tend to simplify the pronunciation of words to make them easier to say. Personally....I don't really find it any easier....or harder ...for that matter to say Prescott......but Preskitt it is.
But regardless of how you pronounce it....the name itself...was given to the town when it was founded in 1864 when it was established to secure the area's mineral riches for the Union during the Civil War...and named after famed historian William H Prescott....and yes...William... pronounced his name Prescott.....as was pretty typical amongst his Boston contemporaries....from which he hailed.
As I'd learned a stop or two back....Prescott would service as the states capital until passing the torch to Phoenix in 1889.
Prescott would go on to become a significant frontier gold and silver mining town....and experienced the wild west as most of the towns out this way did back then.....including frequent conflicts with Native Americans. Fort Whipple would be relocated, from Del Rio Springs...to Prescott in 1864....and would play a significant role in protecting the town during these conflicts....
Another thing Prescott would share with so many other towns of the era....fire. The town would be devastated by multiple fires, particularly in the early 20th century....which led to the reconstruction of many of the towns buildings in brick...a hallmark of the downtown area to this day.
Sounds like a pretty cool place.....which is likely why tourism plays a huge role in the towns economy today....so much history to see....and explore. Prescott is even home to the Worlds Oldest Rodeo.....which has been held annually in the town since 1888.
As tempting as it was to go check out......our proclivity to avoid crowds......pointed us, instead.....deeper into those Bradshaw Mountains, The Prescott National Forest.....and an area called Groom Creek.....on an old dirt road.....Old Senater Road to be exact.
Our random wanderings around the outskirts of Prescott.....dipping in and out of The Prescott National Forest would work out pretty well......when we did it again........another dirt road......and up into those mountains we went.
We drove several miles along that dirt road....admiring the forest around us ..... when there it was.....just to our left.....the perfect camping spot for the nite or two....we pulled in...picked our spot at the base of those ponderosa pines.......already anticipating how fun long walks with Dougie would be in these Bradshaw Mountains....what's wrong with that? Nuthin.
And here would be another example of when Google maps would tell us where we were.......no signs.....no address markers.....but the phone said we were in Groom Creek....parked along Old Senator Hiway.
A little time on the internet would tell us that Groom Creek.....an unincorporated community....just south of Prescott.....and nestled in that Prescott National Forest......of course...we already knew the forest part.
The area was named after Robert W. Groom, a prospector and surveyor who played a significant role in the early development of the region.
The community's history is closely tied to mining......but as Prescott grew up just up the road a bit....Groom Creek....after those mining years....would settle in becoming more known for it's beautiful surroundings...and known for the pretty awesome outdoor activity offerings....Hiking is huge out this way....and so is off roading ....the more moderate climate just a few miles up from the desert below...combined with the natural beauty of places like Spruce Mountain and the Groom Creek Loop draw outdoor enthusiasts from across the state......and probably beyond....I mean...we're here.....from some from some three or four states away....
And learning more.....about this Prescott National Forest. .....well....for sure....it's an incredibly diverse and historically rich area.
It was originally established as the Prescott Forest Reserve on May 10, 1898, to protect water sources for local communities¹. The forest covers around 1.25 million acres and includes a variety of landscapes, from desert to these pine forest we are sitting in the middle of. Elevations within the forest range from 3000 feet across the Sonoran Desert below us.....not only to the 5400 feet where we are...but can take you another 3000 feet up if you find your way up to the 8000 foot summit of Mt. Union. The coolest part here is that we do not have to imagine the landscapes involved.....and contained here....because we had just driven through them....all
The forest is full of evidence of human activity dating back thousands of years. This includes rock shelters, cliff dwellings, and historic homesteads¹. The area was heavily influenced by mining, grazing, and timber harvesting, especially after gold was discovered in the Bradshaw Mountains in the mid-1800s².
It is also known for it's diverse ecosystems. As we'd just learned....It ranges from low desert areas to high mountain forests, providing habitats for a wide variety of wildlife. ....and if wildlife is your thing.....the examples here are nearly endless......From Black bears, Mountain Lions, Deer....elk....and javelinas.....to King Snakes, Horned Toads, ..... porcupines and squirrels.....and most anything else you could think up......and don't leave out the array of birdlife from majestic eagles to wild turkeys and water foul......they're all here too.
The forest also includes several rivers and lakes.......so boating, kayaking fishing, camping....even hunting can all be added to the list of outdoor activities the forest offers. The reality is....the Forest contributes immensely to the areas economy through this extremely diverse range of activities.....and not to mention livestock grazing and the continued extraction of minerals and timber.
And this Old Senator Road....that brought us here....this 37 mile stretch of of Arizona history....brings it own story along for the ride.....it is a historic route that connects Prescott to Groom Creek and extends further to a place called Crown King.
Constructed in 1866 as a toll road, it was initially built to facilitate travel between Prescott and the Old Senator Mine near present-day Crown King. The road played a crucial role in the region's mining history, serving as a vital link for transporting ore and supplies to extract it.
Today, Senator Highway is a mix of paved and unpaved sections, making it a favorite for off-road driving and exploring the Prescott National Forest⁶. The route offers a glimpse into Arizona's mining past while providing all those recreational activities.
From abandoned mines......up...and into these Bradshaw mountains.....it's pretty easy to see why this area is so popular today.....we certainly enjoyed our time here....hiking.....exploring.....always finding it hard to believe that all those people were not so very far away.....and all that desert was not all that far behind us.....here....we'd somehow found our way back to wooded forests we love so much.....but this time....those wooded forests were of a different sort....and even though we were in Arizona.......this forest didn't feel all that different from those we had left behind....in the Pacific Northwest....some one thousand three hundred miles behind us.....
And then stumbled across a bit of info......yet just one more example.....an example proving that if you read just one more sentance....click on just one more link.....or ask one more question.....That while reading about the incredible history....and beauty of these Bradshaw Mountains and this Prescott National Forest....you could stumble across the name...
The Gold Peak Mining Company.
On it's surface...that means little more than an incorporated mining company seeking to invest in....and profit....from the natural resources here in the Bradshaw Mountains of Arizona. So why does a guy like me have to click a few pages further to learn that the Gold Peak Mining Company....is actually a wholly owned Chinese company.....a subsidiary of a Chinese company named the Wanguo International Mining Group. A foreign entity that began acquiring property right here in the Bradshaw Mountains of Arizona....in 2016. And while the companies intent is to begin strip mining Gold, Iron, and most interestingly....Uranium....you know....that stuff needed for Electricity....and nuclear bombs? is public.....via their applications.....what is not so evident....or clear....or transparent....is that the company has also filed claims across the area for permits to mine these mineral assets on public lands.....it doesn't appear that any of these filings have actually been granted ...... yet.
All sorts of stuff started streaming through this simpletons mind......had we not learned anything from the effects of strip mining in the United States ?
A mining practice born in the Appalachian region of the US.
After a few decades of decapitating the Mountains of the Appalachia's.....and observing the devastation to the landscape....the US government would begin regulating the activity and requiring Mining Companies to repair the damage done once a mining site was closed......and whether or not that will be effective....or have any lasting impact is still up for debate....but here's what kept swirling through my brain...
After all we know......the impact on environment....and human life...all at the hands of US Corporations.....why.....why...in the year 2019 would the US government allow the selling off of private land....and the use of our Public lands...by a foriegn entity?
An entity that proposes mining the raw material and trucking it to the port of Los Angeles...where it will be shipped to China for processing. Shipping the raw material allows the parent organization to avoid taxes and tarriffs on the profit generated once it sells the final product to the rest of the world.....including us? The US. All while experiencing none of the negative environmental impacts within their own country....because they did all the damage here?....
Sounds weird? Sounds wrong?..... Now granted......I am most certainly over simplifying a complex conversation......just sayin...reading through some of this on a rainy evening ..... here in these Bradshaw Mountains.....it sounds pretty bonkers to me.....why does the world operate like this....where does capitalism end....and humanity begin....where does global economics end......and a countries self interest begin.....And why does no one.....not legacy news agencies.....the newspaper.....and certainly not this bogus social media news bs ever tell any of us this?.....
In how many other places is this happening across the US? Are we doing the same thing in other countries?
Before I got to frustrated and angry with all this.....I had to close the laptop on this one for now.....and head out for a walk with Dougie....
During that walk I would remind myself.....where I am....soak in the beauty of it all....and hope that there are folks WAY smarter than I......out there watching out for the rest of us. ....
We awoke to more of that rain on our second morning...... It felt good....it smelled good....it was refreshing....but it might have also nudged us a bit. Realizing that we were miles in on dirt roads....what if the rains kept up.....when would those dirt roads become mud? Maybe it was time to move on?
Forcast said rains would subside by midday.....so decided it would be breakfast.....one last walk....and a little more reading before heading out this afternoon. The name Crown King was stuck in my head. Every since reading of the origins of this Old Senator Hiway....I had wondered about this place called Crown King....where it was....why it was...and of course...That name....I'm always curious about a places name.
So it was back to the internet.....to learn....that this place called Crown King is yet another historic community here in Arizonas Bradshaw Mountains
No surprise to learn that Crown King began as a gold mining town in the late 19th century. And probably shouldn't have been surprised to learn that the community was named for The Crowned King Mine...but would later be shortened to Crown King.
The first gold claim in the area was filed in 1875...the Crowned King Mine would go on to produce over two million dollars worth of gold....one of the most productive mines in the Bradshaw Mountains...but things would be a little different here.... a lot things would get in the way of folks generating any significant wealth from this mine. The harsh terrain....and other obstacles like persistant water shortages would get in the way...and as if to ad insult to injury...mother nature would intervene and throw in a majore storm in 1890 that would not only damage mining facilities....but wash away unknown amounts of valuable ore concentrates.......but miners of the day would persist...knowing there was still gold in them there hills...
Eventually....conflict would enter the picture as well.... and as mine operators across the region engaged in bitter disputes leading to litigation and even violence.....all...as mine production declined.....all of this....would eventually lead to shuttering of most of the mines in the area....Including that Crowned King Mine.
Today, the remnants of the Crowned King Mine and the historic town of Crown King attract tons of folks interested in Arizona's mining history. The Crown King Saloon, originally from the nearby ghost town of Oro Belle, is a popular local attraction.
Another piece of Arizona history.....inviting a visit....bad news....we wouldn't make it that 61 miles up the road to Crown King this trip.....good news....a pretty cool place has been added to the list of places we will most certainly be back to.....for a real look next time.
Pulling out of our spot in the Prescott National Forest....it was clear the weather was turning on us. It was becoming evident that the rainshower we woke up to in Groom Creek this morning.....was but just an indicator...of what we would would be driving into.
A day of exploring...which including a drive up and around lynx lake.....and other parts of the Prescott National Forest....but we kept pushing on. We're not much into...paved parking lots and the situations in which we go to sleep alone....but wake up with neighbors. So we kept pressing on.....exploring....and skirting those 40 thousand people that live in that place called Prescott.
We had worked out way down out of the Prescott area....and nearer Phoenix as the day was coming to a close. The rain.....it was persisting....and yet each time we pulled off the asphalt in search of our next campsite....it just wasn't....quite.....right.....
Until....The last sign we passed said New River Arizona......the next sign we would come upon...would be a for sale sign. This one at the dirt road driveway of 10 acres of the Sonoran Desert we had found our back back down into... the three or four rundown buildings included in the sale were just off the highway.....and now....it was nightfall....and the rain....had been joined by thunder and lightening. Could this be our first desert storm? After a quick bite....and an even quicker walk with Dougie....We'd spend the evening......feet up on the dash....watching the desert come to life with each bolt of lightening....and each rumble of thunder..... Crawling into bed that night....curious about a place called New River Arizona.....and Wondering what are gonna learn here?