It's Day 442...it's also July 21 2020...and we are at the Clark Canyon Reservoir in Montana

Podcast episode #73 Transcript

Dougie, Billie, and Craig

7/21/20208 min read

It's Day 442...it's also July 21 2020...and we are at the Clark Canyon Reservoir in Montana

Today was another good drive....a fun drive.....especially when considering that we would clock some 200 miles on Vacilando....only to land just 62 miles from where we left our spot in Spencer....

Lemme explain.....

First..,we would learn that the drive would offer us offer us a beautiful.... and scenic drive through the Rocky Mountain landscape....Idaho's version....of the Rocky Mountains.

Here in Idaho..it's....

The Bitterroot Mountain Range......known for its rugged peaks, beautiful forests, and numerous recreational opportunities like hiking, fishing, and just checkin out wildlife in general.

And then.....the Centennial Mountains...and the stunning Alpine scenery they toss into the mix.

And had we just kept going....north.....we'd have found our way to this Clark Canyon Reservoir in no time....

But....

There was that sign....just 30 miles or so outta Spencer I think when.....the sign....and the arrow.....told us Wisdom Montana....was just 88 miles away.....due west

So if you've read the book....Last Bus to Wisdom....by Ivan Doig....you would already understand fully that if you ever found yourself wandering about Montana and saw the sign to Wisdom...well....your goin to Wisdom.

If ya haven't read the book...or aren't familiar with Ivans work....quick summary....

Ivan was born in 1939 in White Sulpher Springs Montana....a small ranching community of around 500 at the time. He was deeply influenced by his upbringing and experiences in Montana...a life that provided a rich source of inspiration for what would become.... his storytelling. He grew up in a family of ranchers and sheepherders, and his early life in the rugged landscapes of the American West left a lasting impression on him. His profound connection to the land and its people drove him to capture the essence of life in those Montana Rocky Mountains...

He would publish his first book....at the age of 42....This House of Sky: Landscapes of a Western Mind. He would go on to write 16 books in total....the last being "Last Bus to Wisdom" published in 2015...the same year...sadly....he passed away.

Doig's storytelling is a tribute to the Montana he knew and loved, he was speaking from first hand experience....a life he had known....and somehow managed to combine the trials and tribulations of everyday folks....and the things we deal with...but set in a part of the country like no other....the wide open....and big sky's....of Montana.

Ironically....my introduction to Ivan came with Ivans last piece of work... "Last Bus to Wisdom"....which I just finished reading just a few weeks back....so I'll be working my way back through Ivan's work.

But....Last Bus to Wisdome.....It's an adventurous novel set in the summer of 1951. It tells the story of an 11-year-old boy... Donal Cameron....having lost both his parents ..... he would be sent to his granparents farm in rural Montana. Shortly after his arrival....Donal's grandfather would pass away...leaving just he and his grandmother....the two would form a deep bond.....but when his beloved Gram falls ill...and requires surgery....she fears she cannot properly care for Donel...so makes the difficult decision to send Donal to stay with his great aunt...in Wisconsin....while she recovers.

Along the way, Donal meets a colorful cast of characters on the bus and experiences a series of adventures and misadventures. His great-aunt turns out to be a rather unpleasant person, leading Donal to set off on an unexpected journey with his great aunts husband, Herman the German....what a character he was.

In the end...for me....the book is the story... of a young boy's quest for family, belonging, and understanding....along the way he learns a good deal about himself...life....and the world around him....and that sometimes you can find exactly what you need...maybe even before you knew you needed it.

All this to say.....that a 176 mile round trip detour was....a no brainer.....when the town at the end of that detour is Wisdom Montana....the town where that 11 year old boy found a deeper sense of belonging and connection....a way forward in life....in 1950's Montana.

Standing in....and Walking around Wisdom in 2020.....absorbing the fact that the town has never had a population of more than 132 people...all ranchers likely...except for the retiree's and road warriors like us that pass thru from time to time.....it's kinda out there...as life in most of Montana always has been....you don't exactly stumble across this place by accident...on a road trip...my guess is....that many likely pass thru...having no clue....exactly what....or who's lives they just passed thru.....and the same applies to most places I spose.

Today....Wisdom Montana simply looks like many other small midwestern towns that 100 or so folks choose to call home. You usually pass through these little gems on your way to somewhere else, but Wisdom Montana might be worth a stop next time you find yourself in this southwest corner of the state. Named The Wisdom, for the headwaters of the Jefferson River by the Lewis and Clark Expedition…the rivers eventually changed names but the town, in all it’s wisdom, pun intended…did not.

The town sits in the middle of The Big Hole Valley with the Anaconda Mountains to the northwest and the Pioneer Mountains to the northeast. Between the two there are thousands of miles of camping, hiking, boating, and fishing opportunities. These vast, lush, and in many cases, untouched stretches of Montana leave even the most adventurous with more to see…and do…than the time constraints we seem to place on ourselves...would allow.

You will also learn to appreciate the fresh clean aroma that fills the air when newly cut hay…fresh flowing rivers…and the cool mountain air all collide to stimulate the senses in a way that cannot be replicated in a world filled with civilization.

The valleys true claim to fame has, and will likely always be it’s ability to produce that hay. If your passing through during July or August of any given year you could likely witness “The beaverslide”. A hay stacking device, and technique developed during the early 1900’s that many of todays ranchers still utilize.

Whether here to observe hundreds of years of agriculture expertise in action, to find adventure a foot, snag a fish….or simply to grab a beer and burger on your way to somewhere else…Wisdom Montana can, and will, share all of this…and likely a good deal more if you give it the time.

To those of us that followed 11 year old Donal....taggin along with Herman the German on an adventure across this part of the country ......in a simpler time…Wisdom Montana will always mean just a little bit more.

Back out on the main highway.....we trekked that last 30 miles or so to Clark Canyon Reservoir. I'd read online that there were some pretty awesome camping opportunities around the lake...and there are!

The Clark Canyon Dam, completed in 1964 is an earth-fill dam which impounds the waters of the Beaverhead River here in the southwestern corner of Montana. With the creation of the reservoir…the area ensured irrigation support for over 60,000 acres of surrounding farmland. Along with it’s functionality, the reservoir introduced massive recreation opportunities to the area’s residents, as well as countless visitors each year. Fishing, hiking, boating and camping are all enjoyed with the support of multiple campgrounds around the lake. Perhaps most impressive is that these camp sites are offered free of charge to the public. Water is available, however the sites do not provide electricity but do offer an on sight camp host to provide information about the area and maintain the appearance of these well manicured sites. We enjoyed our spot next to a covered pavilion complete with picnic table and bbq pit while taking in that view... the lake and wildlife that call it home.

According to the Clark Canyon Reservoir official site...

Clark Canyon Reservoir is also the location of Camp Fortunate....

a significant stop along the Lewis and Clark Trail. It was here that the expedition met the Lemhi Shoshoni Tribe and cached their canoes and supplies for the return trip....

I'd also learn a little more about Sacagawea...the Native American woman who had joined Louis and Clark as their guide through the area. Her knowledge of the area...and it's terrain....as well as her ability to communicate with various native american tribes proved to be invaluable to the success of the expedition....But I guess I hadn't known...or remembered.... that prior to joining the expedition....Sacagawea...at the age of 12.... had been taken captive by another tribe...after 3 years of captivity....she was sold into a non-concentual marriage to a French fur Trapper in the Region....this french fur trapper would later be hired by Lewis and Clark as an interpreter.....and his 16 year old bride would come along as well. And it would be here....at camp fortunate....that sacagawea would reunite with her family and people. Lucky for Lewis and Clarke.....after the emotional reunion....Sacagawea would decide to remain with her husband....and continue on with the expedition.

Pretty awesome to revisit what these folks accomplished. A two and half year trek...spanning some 8000 miles from St. Louis....to the Pacific Ocean.....and back again. How they used keel boats and canoes along waterways....and then had to pack those water craft over...and through the rocky mountains using only pack animals......and their own legs as transportation. A very different journey....than the one we're experiencing today.

Also pretty cool to learn that upon their return to St. Louis.....Lewis and Clark would become instrumental in helping Sacagawea and her husband settle in....and later helping them to secure an education for their children. I spose the least they could do for a now 18 year old woman....that had helped not only an expedition succeed....but a nation grow....and find it's new American west.

No wonder so many movies and documentaries have been written around Sacagawea's life.....I'll have to check a few more out....

Our afternoon alongside the lake also came with other interesting....slash entertaining moments....

Like when that massive....diesel pusher pulled in. Had to be 40 feet long....looked brand new...they circled the campground a couple times looking for just the right spot I spose.....we watched them pick one....and then begin watching them try to level the thing up....using the auto levelers on the rig. Did'nt seem to know much about exactly how the system operated. A young lady would hop out of the rig....run around it....and shout instructions to the driver....husband maybe?.....

Felt bad for them.....would have offerred help but doubted that I would know anymore about how the leveling system works on a 300,000 dollar RV....given that I had barely mastered the system on my 30 year old Vacilando.....but have to admit.....was a little humorous.....watching the massive piece of machinery bounce around as levelers on all four corners lower...and then raise.....in what turned out to be a futile attempt at leveling. AFter 30 minutes or so they gave up.....and left the campsite....in search of a more level...perhaps concrete option.

So it was back to gazing out over the lake....watching boats come in....and go out....from that boat launch.....cars pull in....kids appearing from all sides of the car and making that dash for the lake....as parents unpacked BBQ supplies....

And time spent gazing northeast.......off into those mountains. Knowing that we are just 85 miles or so from where we're headed next....Craig Montana....and wondering if we'll get there tomorrow.

Seems every time we hit the road in these parts....we never get very far...always something to go check out.....the perfect spot to pull out for lunch....dinner....even the night magically appears randomly.....

So basically....the journey remains the same......and so does the curiosity.....whether a planned stop....or a random one....

I wonder what we'll learn there